THE HISTORY
ORIGIN
Born in France in 1912, Jacques Fath’s early fascination for fashion led to the opening of his first Couture house in Paris in 1937. His unique and glamorous style quickly attracted success, dressing the ‘young Chic Parisian’ and influential clientele. Notably, Hubert de Givenchy, Guy Laroche and Valentino Garavani worked as assistants in his atelier, later founding their own fashion houses.
The perfumes’ saga begins with the launch of Chasuble in 1945 and later, with the iconic creations of Iris Gris and Green Water in collaboration with perfumer Vincent Roubert, solidifying Jacques Fath Perfumes’ legendary status in niche Haute Parfumerie.
CONCEPT
The spirit of Jacques Fath is captured today within the contemporary design and emblematic codes of the ‘Fath’s Essentials Collection.’ Creative Director, Rania Naim, collaborated with independent perfumers Cécile Zarokian and Luca Maffei in 2016, and more recently with IFF master perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault, to create the Fath’s Essentials Collection. This range of fragrances embodies Jacques Fath’s vibrant personality and unique fashion style.
Cécile’s work is enchanting; each new perfume creation unveils a universe that transports the senses through different territories. Exceptional raw materials, such as Neroli or Grey Amber, used for the revisited mythical Green Water, as well as for other Jacques Fath creations like Bel Ambre, Red Shoes, and Curacao Bay, marking the signatures of this unique collection.
For Luca, the direction was different: no longer relying on a classic brand pillar, but drawing from a rich and varied olfactory palette, utilizing the most innovative and noble raw materials to create feminine fragrances like Les Frivolités and Lilas Exquis. This also pays tribute to Jacques Fath’s ‘joie de vivre.’
With Jean-Christophe, he has infused innovative methods into his approach to achieve ‘beautiful, classic and rigorous perfumery and a more whimsical modernism.’ The collection has expanded with Vetiver Gris, a bright contemporary fragrance; Jasmin de Toscane, which revolves around a unique jasmine used for the first time in a perfume; and most recently, Encens Copal, a modern interpretation of incense, blending vibrant notes with White Copal to create a fresh, modern, and daring scent.
RANIA NAIM
CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF JACQUES FATH
A Short Biography
“The Parisian woman embodies a style, a state of mind, and an elegance distinguished by an indescribable – je ne sais quoi.”
This description particularly rings true when portraying Rania Naim, the Creative Director of Panouge Group. Based in Paris, the company’s portfolio includes French perfume brands such as Isabey Paris, Jacques Fath, Panouge Paris, and Japanese brand, Masakï Paris.
Born in Beirut, Rania cherishes memories of the strong scents, like tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, and precious aromatic woods, that surrounded her during childhood. As she shared with Vogue and Cosmétique mag, this is when she began developing an olfactory memory and the belief that a fragrance permeates and defines a person’s style.
Originally preparing for a career in the world of fashion as a stylist, Rania shifted her focus in Paris when she discovered the intricacies of the selective and niche perfumery. Passionate about the field and its infinite possibilities, she set her mind on making it the essence of her career.
The revival of Jacques Fath perfumes occurred in 2008 when Panouge Group acquired the brand. After several creations for the historical lineage, Rania decided that a complete break with style was the future and rethought the entire concept. In 2016, the new collection, ‘Fath’s Essentials,’ and then ‘L’IRIS DE FATH,’ a finalist at the FiFi Awards, reestablished the brand’s reputation linked to the great French couturier.
THE PERFUMERS
CECILE ZAROKIAN
Cécile Zarokian graduated from ISIPCA and underwent a four-year training at Robertet, initially in Grasse and later in Paris. She was still a trainee when she created her first fragrance, Amouage Epic Woman. In 2011, Cécile decided to establish her own company, CECILE ZAROKIAN SARL, and set up her laboratory in Paris, allowing her to dedicate her time fully to working independently as a perfumer. This led to the creation of around seventy fragrances for various niche perfume brands, including Jovoy Paris, Xerjoff, MDCI, Jacques Fath, Laboratorio Olfattivo, Masque Fragranze, and the entire Château de Versailles scented candles collection. Additionally, Cécile collaborated on an artistic project with an illustrator, resulting in an exhibition in Paris as part of the Rives de la Beauté event, followed by showings in London in 2013 and at the Triennale di Milano for Esxence 2014.
Behind the scenes – By Cecile Zarokian
“I was very flattered and pleased when la Maison Jacques Fath presented me with the project of reviving Green Water, but also was a little anxious to address such a reference in perfumery… I remembered the time I was studying this classic – Green Water is one of the precursors of the family of Aromatic Citrus and a great success at that time. I exchanged and worked in close collaboration with la Maison Jacques Fath and also with l’Osmothèque in Versailles. Together, we studied the 1946 fragrance, and I submitted my trials to Mr. Jean Kerleo, perfumer and founder of this unique institution. To maintain its distinctive freshness, I used lavish quantities of Neroli to ensure a qualitative result, among other ingredients.”
LUCA MAFFEI
Luca Maffei, a young and independent Italian perfumer, born and based in Milan, is the founder of Atelier Fragranze Milano. His early connection with the world of essences began in childhood, with his first olfactory memory being his mother’s perfume. Fascinated by the charm of raw materials and the mysterious alchemy of their combinations, Luca decided to explore the world of perfumery at the age of 22. He studied perfumery in Grasse under the guidance of mentor Francoise Marin and apprenticed with Vincent Ricord at Expressions Parfumées.
During his young career, Luca signed more than 50 perfumed creations. He is member of SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs) and the perfumer he admires above all is Edmond Roudnitska for his legendary creations and for his life dedicated to perfume. He said “a beautiful perfume is the one that leads to a shock” and this is also Luca’s greatest ambition.
Behind the scenes – By Luca Maffei
Rania Naim and Luca Maffei joined forces to craft a collection where fragrances, names, and colors harmonize seamlessly. Luca’s selection of innovative raw materials and noble ingredients imparts a distinctive accord to each fragrance, resonating with its name. The Kir Royal, Gold, Violet cream, and Rose macaroon accords, crafted by Luca, showcase the boldness of his work as a perfumer, embodying ‘la joie de vivre.’ These accords also served as the inspiration for the color codes of each fragrance.
For Luca, collaborating with Jacques Fath perfumes held a deep symbolic meaning: “Jacques Fath was the mentor of the couturier Valentino. I’m therefore proud today to renew the link of the past: the French Jacques Fath’s style ‘joie de vivre’ with the Italian know-how.”
PATRICE REVILLARD
Born in Annecy, the countryside and his grandmother’s garden marked Patrice Revillard’s youth, as well as roses and his interest in plants and botany. A passion that would lead him to perfumes and scents, after studying biology and chemistry. However, finding these disciplines too general and lacking the artistic aspect he longed for, he decided to join the École Supérieure du Parfum in Paris.
Although plants and evocations of nature remain his primary sources of inspiration and favorite subjects, Patrice is also interested in the history of perfumes. By studying and understanding the context of the creations of the more abstract olfactory forms that have marked modern perfumery allows him to integrate the architecture of fragrances over the decades, enabling him to undertake the realization of his own creations.
To him, perfume is nothing without structure and without a strong, original, daring accord. He is fascinated by the emotions that perfume can convey, so in every project, he seeks to create the most beautiful fragrant story from his inspiration. Today, Patrice is a MAELSTROM perfumer.
Behind the scenes of L’Iris de Fath – By Patrice Revillard
“All of this was achieved by smelling the different Iris Gris vintage perfumes that were at our disposal, including the beautiful re-composition of the Osmothèque, made by Master Perfumer Jean Kerléo. And by using our knowledge, our noses, without direct access to the formula, only for one purpose: to be able to smell again this masterpiece, proportioned in noble ingredients at a breathtaking level.”
JEAN-CHRISTOPHE HERAULT
Jean-Christophe Hérault, trained as a chemist, began his career at Fragrance Resources, which IFF acquired in 2016. There, Master Perfumer Pierre Bourdon introduced him to perfumery, sparking his passion. He joined IFF in 2010, guided by Bourdon to read Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time” and develop his own artistic voice. This led Jean-Christophe to study art history at the Paris Beaux-Arts, inspiring his work today.
Jean-Christophe’s perfumes reflect his deep connection to both creativity and chemistry, weaving together contrasts and influences from various art forms. He is a dreamer, and he believes in the power of introspection. He actively makes time for reverie, allowing his creative ideas to unfold freely. As he puts it, “I cherish and preserve time for my reveries, which I hope resonate in my perfumes.”
Behind the scenes of Vetiver Gris – By Jean-Christophe Hérault
“When I saw that Jacques Fath Parfums was relaunching the iconic and emblematic Iris Gris, I was really moved, and I told myself that I really wanted to be part of this adventure, to continue this story. But I also wanted to bring something contemporary, something new.
So, I met with Rania, the Creative Director of Jacques Fath, and I will always remember the first time we met. It was in her office, and we talked for two hours about how she had relaunched Iris Gris. She also told me about the committee she had created to select the best candidate anonymously. I really liked it and was interested by this approach. We concluded our conversation by saying that if there was ever a project that suited me, and that matched my personality, Rania would let me know.”