L'HISTOIRE
ORIGINES
Né en France en 1912, la fascination précoce de Jacques Fath pour la mode l'a conduit à ouvrir sa première maison de couture à Paris en 1937. Son style unique et glamour connaît rapidement le succès, habillant les « jeunes parisiens chics » et la clientèle influente. Hubert de Givenchy, Guy Laroche et Valentino Garavani ont notamment travaillé comme assistants dans son atelier, fondant plus tard leur propre maison de couture.
La saga des parfums commence avec le lancement de Chasuble en 1945 et plus tard, avec les créations emblématiques d'Iris Gris et Green Water en collaboration avec le parfumeur Vincent Roubert, consolidant le statut légendaire des Parfums Jacques Fath dans la Haute Parfumerie de niche.
NOTRE CONCEPT
L'esprit de Jacques Fath est aujourd'hui capturé dans le design contemporain et les codes emblématiques de la « Collection Fath's Essentials », Rania Naim, qui a collaboré avec les parfumeurs indépendants Cécile Zarokian et Luca Maffei en 2016, et plus récemment avec le maître parfumeur de l'IFF, Jean- Christophe Hérault, pour créer la collection Fath's Essentials. Cette gamme de parfums incarne la vie vibrante de Jacques Fath et son style de mode unique pour les hommes et les femmes.
Le travail de Cécile est enchanteur ; chaque nouvelle création de parfum dévoile un univers qui transporte les sens à travers différents territoires. Des matières premières d'exception, comme le Néroli ou l'Ambre Gris, utilisées pour le mythique revisité Green Water, ainsi que pour d'autres créations de Jacques Fath comme Bel Ambre, Chaussures rouges, et Baie de Curaçao, marquant les signatures de cette collection unique.
Pour Luca, l'orientation était différente : ne plus s'appuyer sur un pilier de marque classique, mais puiser dans une palette olfactive riche et variée, en utilisant les matières premières les plus innovantes et les plus nobles pour créer des parfums féminins comme Les Frivolités et Lilas Exquis. Cela rend également hommage à la « joie de vivre » de Jacques Fath.
Avec Jean-Christophe, il a insufflé des méthodes innovantes dans son approche pour parvenir à « une parfumerie belle, classique et rigoureuse et un modernisme plus fantaisiste ». La collection s'est élargie avec Vétiver Gris, un parfum contemporain lumineux, accompagné de sa plus récente création, Jasmin de Toscane, qui s'articule autour d'un jasmin tout à fait unique utilisé pour la première fois dans un parfum.
RANIA NAIM
DIRECTRICE ARTISTIQUE DE JACQUES FATH
Une brève biographie
«La Parisienne incarne un style, un état d'esprit et une élégance qui se distinguent par un indescriptible – je ne sais quoi."
Cette description sonne particulièrement vraie lorsqu'elle représente Rania Naim, la directrice artistique du groupe Panouge. Basée à Paris, le portefeuille de la société comprend des marques de parfums françaises telles que Isabey Paris, Jacques Fath, Panouge Paris, et marque japonaise, Masakï Paris.
Née à Beyrouth, Rania chérit les souvenirs des parfums forts, comme la tubéreuse, le gardénia, le jasmin et les bois aromatiques précieux, qui l'entouraient pendant son enfance. Comme elle l'a partagé avec Vogue et Cosmétique mag, c'est à ce moment-là qu'elle a commencé à développer une mémoire olfactive et la conviction qu'un parfum imprègne et définit le style d'une personne.
Originally preparing for a career in the world of fashion as a stylist, Rania shifted her focus in Paris when she discovered the intricacies of the selective and niche perfumery. Passionate about the field and its infinite possibilities, she set her mind on making it the essence of her career.
The revival of Jacques Fath perfumes occurred in 2008 when Panouge Group acquired the brand. After several creations for the historical lineage, Rania decided that a complete break with style was the future and rethought the entire concept. In 2016, the new collection, ‘Fath’s Essentials,’ and then ‘L’IRIS DE FATH,’ a finalist at the FiFi Awards, reestablished the brand’s reputation linked to the great French couturier.
NOS PARFUMEURS
CECILE ZAROKIAN
Cécile Zarokian graduated from ISIPCA and underwent a four-year training at Robertet, initially in Grasse and later in Paris. She was still a trainee when she created her first fragrance, Amouage Epic Woman. In 2011, Cécile decided to establish her own company, CECILE ZAROKIAN SARL, and set up her laboratory in Paris, allowing her to dedicate her time fully to working independently as a perfumer. This led to the creation of around seventy fragrances for various niche perfume brands, including Jovoy Paris, Xerjoff, MDCI, Jacques Fath, Laboratorio Olfattivo, Masque Fragranze, and the entire Château de Versailles scented candles collection. Additionally, Cécile collaborated on an artistic project with an illustrator, resulting in an exhibition in Paris as part of the Rives de la Beauté event, followed by showings in London in 2013 and at the Triennale di Milano for Esxence 2014.
Behind the scenes – By Cecile Zarokian
“I was very flattered and pleased when la Maison Jacques Fath presented me with the project of reviving Green Water, but also was a little anxious to address such a reference in perfumery… I remembered the time I was studying this classic – Green Water is one of the precursors of the family of Aromatic Citrus and a great success at that time. I exchanged and worked in close collaboration with la Maison Jacques Fath and also with l’Osmothèque in Versailles. Together, we studied the 1946 fragrance, and I submitted my trials to Mr. Jean Kerleo, perfumer and founder of this unique institution. To maintain its distinctive freshness, I used lavish quantities of Neroli to ensure a qualitative result, among other ingredients.”
LUCA MAFFEI – PARFUMER AFMN ATELIER FRAGANZE MILANO
Luca Maffei, a young and independent Italian perfumer, born and based in Milan, is the founder of Atelier Fragranze Milano. His early connection with the world of essences began in childhood, with his first olfactory memory being his mother’s perfume. Fascinated by the charm of raw materials and the mysterious alchemy of their combinations, Luca decided to explore the world of perfumery at the age of 22. He studied perfumery in Grasse under the guidance of mentor Francoise Marin and apprenticed with Vincent Ricord at Expressions Parfumées.
During his young career, Luca signed more than 50 perfumed creations (Fine Fragrance Niche and Mainstream, Air Scent/Candles) for Houbigant Paris, Perris Monte Carlo, Carthusia, Masque Milano, Pineider, Laboratorio Olfattivo, a.s.o. …. Two of his creations, Black Pepper & Sandalwood by Acca Kappa and Néa by JUL ET MAD Paris, were awarded in 2015 and respectively 2016 with the prestigious “The Art and Olfaction Awards”, Independent Category, in Los Angeles.
Il est membre de la SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs) et le parfumeur qu'il admire par dessus tout est Edmond Roudnitska pour ses créations légendaires et pour sa vie dédiée au parfum. Il disait « un beau parfum est celui qui provoque un choc » et c’est aussi la plus grande ambition de Luca.
Dans les coulisses de la création – Par Luca Maffei
Rania Naim and Luca Maffei joined forces to craft a collection where fragrances, names, and colors harmonize seamlessly. Luca’s selection of innovative raw materials and noble ingredients imparts a distinctive accord to each fragrance, resonating with its name. The Kir Royal, Gold, Violet cream, and Rose macaroon accords, crafted by Luca, showcase the boldness of his work as a perfumer, embodying ‘la joie de vivre.’ These accords also served as the inspiration for the color codes of each fragrance.
For Luca, collaborating with Jacques Fath perfumes held a deep symbolic meaning: “Jacques Fath was the mentor of the couturier Valentino. I’m therefore proud today to renew the link of the past: the French Jacques Fath’s style ‘joie de vivre’ with the Italian know-how.”
JEAN-CHRISTOPHE HERAULT
Jean-Christophe Hérault, who received training as a chemist, began his career at Fragrance Resources, a family-owned fragrance company that was later acquired by IFF in 2016. It was during his time at Fragrance Resources that he was introduced to the art of perfumery by the then Master Perfumer, Pierre Bourdon. This sparked a newfound passion within Jean-Christophe, and he joined IFF in 2010 to pursue his love for fragrance creation.
Pierre Bourdon urged Jean-Christophe to read Marcel Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time” and encouraged him to develop his own artistic voice. In response, Jean-Christophe went on to study art history at the Paris Beaux-Arts school, which continues to be a significant source of inspiration for him. His love of art, music, and literature, combined with his technical expertise in chemistry, enables him to create perfumes that embody multiple contrasts. Notably, he has made unique contributions to Mugler’s ‘The Exceptions’ collection.
Jean-Christophe is a dreamer, and he believes in the power of reveries. He intentionally makes time for introspection, allowing his creative process to unfold freely, hoping that his perfumes will capture the essence of his imagination. In his own words, “I cherish and preserve time for my reveries, which I hope resonate in my perfumes.”
Dans les coulisses de la création du Vetiver Gris – Par Jean-Christophe Hérault
“When I saw that Jacques Fath Parfums was relaunching the iconic and emblematic Iris Gris, I was really moved, and I told myself that I really wanted to be part of this adventure, to continue this story. But I also wanted to bring something contemporary, something new.
So, I met with Rania, the Creative Director of Jacques Fath, and I will always remember the first time we met. It was in her office, and we talked for two hours about how she had relaunched Iris Gris. She also told me about the committee she had created to select the best candidate anonymously. I really liked it and was interested by this approach. We concluded our conversation by saying that if there was ever a project that suited me, and that matched my personality, Rania would let me know.”
JEAN-CHRISTOPHE HERAULT
Jean-Christophe Hérault, who received training as a chemist, began his career at Fragrance Resources, a family-owned fragrance company that was later acquired by IFF in 2016. It was during his time at Fragrance Resources that he was introduced to the art of perfumery by the then Master Perfumer, Pierre Bourdon. This sparked a newfound passion within Jean-Christophe, and he joined IFF in 2010 to pursue his love for fragrance creation.
Pierre Bourdon urged Jean-Christophe to read Marcel Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time” and encouraged him to develop his own artistic voice. In response, Jean-Christophe went on to study art history at the Paris Beaux-Arts school, which continues to be a significant source of inspiration for him. His love of art, music, and literature, combined with his technical expertise in chemistry, enables him to create perfumes that embody multiple contrasts. Notably, he has made unique contributions to Mugler’s ‘The Exceptions’ collection.
Jean-Christophe is a dreamer, and he believes in the power of reveries. He intentionally makes time for introspection, allowing his creative process to unfold freely, hoping that his perfumes will capture the essence of his imagination. In his own words, “I cherish and preserve time for my reveries, which I hope resonate in my perfumes.”